Apex Tint

Do you happen to recall how to remove the rear view mirror? 

This truck is just purty.  
QDP-18%-Ceramic front two 

The smart cards are okay for shrinking, never thought about them for prep. Gator blades are awesome for prep. Just like a plastic razor blade but twice as wide and much more comfortable to use.

The smart cards are okay for shrinking, never thought about them for prep. Gator blades are awesome for prep. Just like a plastic razor blade but twice as wide and much more comfortable to use.

definitiley the tinter unfortunately , 3 things could of happened 1] he had the right blade [ss] but was dull which would be a mistake , 2] he had the right blade and was sharp the way its supposed to be BUT, your glass is soft [which if thats the case it is technically his fault BUT, in A away not his fault because there is no way to know of the glass was soft prior to cutting on it, OR the worst of all he used a carbon steel which cuts the glass no matter what at which point he is 100 percent to blame, I guess the real question is it worth the hassle about a line that you didnt even know was there and  will forget about next week and likely never see it again unless your purposely staring at it , I know its not the best response but its true, almost every car in the world is full of minor dents and scratches including all over the windows BUT you dont notice them unless your really trying to. .  same case in this matter, 
 

Yep what Bham said. That’s a Viper remote start/alarm antenna.

I totally agree. I hate cutting out brake lights, looks much cleaner without for sure. However I always cut them out, unless someone specifically asks me not too. Just trying to cover my ass haha!
 
Utah law says there can’t be any film between the brake light and glass, highway patrol is known to write “fix it” tickets for it. Even though they did away with annual safety inspections, this is something they still enforce on the road. - Lame!
 
I just don’t want someone coming back to me asking me to redo their rear window because they got written up for it.
 

Dry adhesives (to the touch) are water-activated non-reactivable adhesive systems. Some label it CDA, CD, CDF, DA or in this case, DRY. As opposed to pressure sensitive (sticky) adhesives, dry adhesives need water, the silica in glass to activate and heat to dry out and cure to bond.
 
Pressure sensitive adhesives do not need activating or curing. They require a slip agent to lower tack long enough to 'press' the adhesive to the surface. It is pressure 'sensitive; the greater the pressure the better surface bond it obtains, all the while the slip agent gets removed. These adhesives do not cure, they simply dry out and bond strength reaches maximum.
 
Dry pressure sensitive adhesives or detactified (dry to the touch) have a coating on their surface that needs be flushed away to expose the tacky aspect of the pressure sensitive adhesive below. They, too, do not cure, they simply dry out to maximum bond strength.

I bought one thinking I’d use it here and there. Haven’t used it once. There’s really no substitute for a bulldozer IMO.

Day shift fucked me boys 

Been using this one for years along with the blue for shrinking only, heat doesn’t affect it. 
Cheers

Well if you haven’t realized by now, this forum is not geared toward the DIY, but more for industry professionals.

x2 Interwest Tools

Interwest in OC ...

2019 Veloster. Just one rear window on the new ones. That two piece rear window on the older model was a pain. Express Classic Black.

1999 Jeep Cherekee....been a long while since I did one of these.

Hmmm if you look really close there are some inconsistencies on the edge that aren’t typical with a plotter. I’m guessing just a bad hand cut. But who knows. Anyways that’s besides the point. Just play it cool and ask the shop if they wouldn’t mind redoing the window. Sometimes tinters like to see what they can get away with.

Hmmm if you look really close there are some inconsistencies on the edge that aren’t typical with a plotter. I’m guessing just a bad hand cut. But who knows. Anyways that’s besides the point. Just play it cool and ask the shop if they wouldn’t mind redoing the window. Sometimes tinters like to see what they can get away with.

Damn. Those tight corners on frameless windows are annoying. Been there before. But I would never let it leave like that.
 

I believe he’s talking about tucking the film itself behind the seal in typical top load fashion. Not actually tucking the seal down.

Well if you haven’t realized by now, this forum is not geared toward the DIY, but more for industry professionals.

Well if you haven’t realized by now, this forum is not geared toward the DIY, but more for industry professionals.

wanted to pass this along. pillar pulls wihin seconds making quarters easy, disconnect speakers and they swing away

Yeah the black rubber on these works pretty good for both prep and install. If you have extra cut one into a triangle shape. I’m loving mine for roll up windows. It works way better than the Tri Edge plus, and is more low profile than the conquerer.

[mention=29693]jh812[/mention] Awesome idea man. I just cut one down about the size of the Tri Edge X. Can’t wait to try it out on some roll ups!