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TintDude Window Tinting Forum
 Most cars have a black ceramic 'frit' edge on the rear window. Sometimes this ceramic edge is straight and flat, sometimes it will have a dotted matrix edge. These black ceramic dots are quite thick on most cars and prevent the film from sticking to the area between the dots. This results in a
whitish looking strip trimming the glass.

Typically this isn't very noticeable, however some cars have a wide band of dots trimming the top of the rear window. This area is so wide that the whitish looking area created is more pronounced.

 Not much can be done about the narrow strip of dots going around the edges, other than letting the film dry for a few days and then pressing the film down onto the dots with your finger or a hard card wrapped in a paper towel. usually this will greatly reduce the whitish appearance. This usually doesn't work well for the wide band of dots.

 There are a few options for dealing with the very wide dot matrix area.



Paint Them
The dots can be left untinted, the film allowed to dry for a couple of days, then painted. The best way to paint the dots is to use a flat black enamel spray paint. Mask off the tinted area and upholstery trim with plenty of plastic and masking tape. Make sure to get a good straight edge where the paint will meet the tint.


Glue Them ***my favorite way***

glue pen

 Another way is to use a clear stationery glue such as "O' Glue" available at Kinko's or Thrifty's or RightAid or any stationery store or Elmer's blue gel (dries clear and stays pliable) . It is a little tricky and can be messy. It gets a little easier with practice. First tint the window as normal, covering the dots with tint. squeegee as much water as possible from under the dotted area. Carefully peel the film down from the dots and squeeze a bead of O' glue onto the exposed film where it meets the bottom edge of the dot area, lay the film back into position, and carefully, slowly squeegee the glue upwards with a bondo card wrapped in a paper towel, stopping short of the top to keep the glue from glopping out. When all of the glue has been moved to nearly the top, squeegee the rest out with a horizontal pass of the bondo card, holding a paper towel under the squeegee card as you go to catch the excess glue. If you spill the glue on the upholstery, just wipe the excess up, and blot with a wet paper towel. If you smear some onto the surface of the tint, just wipe it away with a paper towel.
 As the glue dries, it will look lumpy for awhile , if the lumps are huge squeegee a little more out. Most of the area will appear a bit lumpy even after its dry, but it looks MUCH better than having that whitened look from the outside.

More on gluing (pics included) HERE

FROM RON
Hi my name is Ron , Just wanted to tell you I LOVED YOUR SITE ! and ask you a couple of questions. I did not have a kinkos close by so I went to office depot . The only glue I found was elmers gel that dries clear it color and is a very light blue.I also got some glue pens that I thought I could put in a syringe ,because the pens have a foam applicator and I don't think that will work.Right know we are using some stuff called DOT TRIX it is very expensive. Have you tried any of these glues that I have mentioned?We are located in Houston Texas & have 3 locations, w/the oldest store being 18 yrs old.do you have a retail store,and do you charge for the dot glue application.I have been charging $20.with no problems getting it this really helps bring the ticket. Do you think $30 is to much to ask for.Thanks again for the info and I will be looking for your reply.

My reply:
I've tried the elmers glue, it worked ok, but o'glue works very well, I had a problem keeping enough elmers underneath. I have never charged extra for dealing with the dot matrix, maybey I should. Thanks for your kind words about my site!





Sanding

FROM JASON
Hi my name is Jason, I am 24 yrs old and a tinter in San Antonio, Texas, I have been tinting for about 5 1/2 yrs. I have worked for a few major companys here, and have started 2 companys with window tinting. I was reading your ideas on the dot matrix section. I do it a different way, I use 1200 grit wet dry sandpaper for the dot matrix or razor blade it for a little bit. I have great results with this method.


FROM BEN
I wanted to thank Jason for his idea. I have previously used a copper pad to prepare the dot matrix but would encounter spots that the film just would not adhere to. I tried using the sandpaper trick and only had two small areas that did not adhere. Maybe I spent more time with the sand paper than the copper pad but non the less it seemed more effective. I must mention it was on a 92 Caravan and the dot matrix was not more than an inch in width. I look forward to trying it on the solid lines that extend across the entire length of the glass. Now if I could learn how to heat shrink better without burning up 300 ft. of film! Ben R.

FROM DAN
I have read some of your options for covering the dots of rear window's. I have been been in this business since 1983 and have tried just about every way possible. The way I think works the best for me is the use of vinyl. The kind that vinyl letters are made from. I will trim a piece just big enough to cover the dots on the outside and apply it dry on the inside with the use of a hard card wrapped in paper towel. After it is applied you can trim the excess off of the bottom edge by hand and then start the window film from that point. Another option is to apply it on the outside. This way the customer can pick a color that best matches his or her vehicle. Although my personal preference is black a lot of my customers seem to like the colored material. It can be bought at most sign shops or sign suppy stores. I am always interested in learning new ways of doing things so, if you have any ideas, please share them with me. Happy tinting!




From: Jason W.
experience: 14+
matrix-tips: I too prefer the glue method, but never did favor the liquid glues. Personally I find a glue STICK (with solid glue that screws out~ picture a lipstick container). They make some brands with like a 1" and 1.5" diameter ~ covers quickly. Cover ALL the dots, a little heavier at the bottom. Just like the liquid 'O' glue, drop and dry the tint etc. Squeegee from the bottom up with a wrapped card ~ all's the same but the state of matter the glue's in. The solid is just less messy. IMHO. Also, use the kind with the disappearing color (it's purple or blue) so you can see where you already rubbed it on.


Email: rocky_37890@yahoo.com

name: Rocky ( Rocky's Tint Shop...)
experience: Over 15 yrs.

matrix-tips: One of the best way's that i have found and this is for experience shrinker's is to do most of your shrinking on the bottom of the glass not to strech and tighten the top so that it pulls away from the glass, then have your customer come back in about 2 weeks to allow plenty of time to dry and not to waste any of your customer's time then push the tint in between the dots at an angle (not straight up) then your problem is gone. Give it a try and drop me a email and let me know what you think @ rocky_37890@yahoo.com. I also do alot of tint Graphix in window's and have tips on that as well if your interested!


Email: TINTER303@AOL.COM
name: HARVEY
experience: 13 YEARS

install-tips: I HAVE FOUND OVER THE YEARS, THAT IF YOU USE VERY FINE SANDING PAPER PREFERABLY BETWEEN 360 GRIT AND 420 WORKS GOOD FOR ME WITH OUT ACTUALLY DAMAGING THE REAR WINDSHIELD. STEP 1 I USE A ADHESIVE REMOVER SOMETHING LIKE GOOFOFF 2 IS PREFERRED, SOAK THE DOTMATRIX WITH GOOFOFF SAND THE DOTS ONLY DO NOT SAND BARE GLASS THIS WILL LEAVE FINE SCRATCHES IF NOT CAREFUL. SAND DOTS THOROUGHLY, SPRAY AGAIN WITH GOOFOFF THIS TIME USE STEEL WOOL TO SCRUB DOTS AGAIN, THEN SRAY WITH SOAPY WATER SOLUTION SCRUB ENTIRE GLASS WITH 3M SCRUBPAD SQUEEGEE AND APPLY FILM.

DAN CLEM
experience: 16
URL: DANSTINTSHOP.COM
matrix-tips: LIKE SOME OTHER INSTALLERS, I LIKE TO WET SAND THE SOLID CERAMIC OR DOT MATRIX WITH 500 GRIT WET. PAPER TOWEL THE RESIDUE DRY AND AND SCRUB WELL WITK 3M SCOTCHBRITE ( WHITE ONLY ) THE WHOLE WINDOW. USE CARE WHEN WET SANDING TO STAY OFF GLASS TO AVOID SCRATCHING. DON'T BOTHER WITH OLDER NISSAN 200SX OR NEWER BEATLES, THEY HAVE TO MUCH FERROUS ( IRON ) MATERIAL AND LEAVE RUST STAINS BETWEEN GLASS AND FILM.


Email: elwindowtinter2@aol.com
name: HotRodd
experience: 3

matrix-tips: cool site dude, i think that sanding then is the best way, but the way of sanding does matter, you should sand side to side first, and then in a small circular motion, again , side 2 side, after this do it down and up,most of the trick is based on your sand paper grit.you should use 600 grit,every time, you do a new window, or matrix,it also mean a new peace of sand paper the peace of s.paper shoul be about4x4 inches,and in those windows that have itat the bottom and getting the sanding paper or sanding it ,is ridiculos,i recomend using an S.O.S dish washing pad,it makes the dotsmore likely to stick to the tint, how ever you should rince some of that excessive soap that comes with the s.o.s pad, well i hope it help, i sure helps me a lot.


Email: rbradley@setel.com
name: ronnie bradley
experience: 15

matrix-tips: I find that sanding dots with at least 500 grit or better,seems to be the ticket.But if you pull the tint from bottom to top as you spray it,stopping where the dot matrix begins,then stop spraying leaving dot matrix of film dry.{for the present time}.See if your using some kind slip adhesive such as baby shampoo or dish washing liquid it iteracts with the film adhesive. So use just a touch (a mist} plain water,which will allow the tint to stick quickly.A few swipes with the ole heat gun and squeegee,and it should lay nicely.See the slip additive is what causes premature sticking. try it you"ll be surprised!!

Email: spyfilms
name: Alex Suykens
experience: 4

matrix-tips: My suggestion for the dots is also vinyl. The easiest way for me was to stencil my tint just above the beginning of the dot matrix, then cut that piece off and use it as a stencil for the vinyl. That way you have a really close line and is less noticeable. To speeden the process, apply a 1/4' pinstripe to the top of the tint after installation, then put your large piece of vinyl on next. Great website by the way!! If you want to here more, my e-mail is spyfilms@hotmail.com


Email: budlongmx
name: Mattgiver
experience: 19yrs.

matrix-tips: There are several problems with treating dot matrix. The first is that you want to pull a trick that will last a very long time. The glue trick is a relatively new trick I believe. Please someone tell me how long they have used this trick without any comebacks. I would like to see if it is a long term fix. Vynil is not a material that will hold color for the long term. The brighter the color, the quicker the fade.Red for instance will last in the range of about a year and still look brilliant. Black will last longer maybe a couple to three years. Still not a long term fix. The only way to fix dot matrix is to paint it. This way you dont damage the glass by sanding. It is really hard to limit sanding to just the dot matrix area and scratches are usally seen where the dot matrix starts to open up in pattern. Painting can be done with a lot of prep work, therefore naturally a charge should be applied. When I black-out matrix the edge where the tint meets paint there is seemless. You can not tell where the tint ends and the paint begins. A very smooth install. also the corners are rounded to give a factory appearance. The rounded corners tie in with the bottom of the window where the bottom of the factory black-out is rounded. This takes some practice, but that is how we will give are customers a better tint-job. I hope that every tinter tries to make there tint job last a lifetime.

Email: prather@neb.rr.com
name: keith may
experience: 11

matrix-tips: Great website.About the dot matix,I have never had a back window come back to me that had started to peel in the dot matrix, I have heard of this being a problem w/ some films.My main problem is getting it to look good.Mustangs, new Grandams,Malibus, they all look awful while these methods work pretty, well you either end up w/ a liitle spot that did't lay down as well as the rest or you spend an extra half hour sanding , piecing together vinyl,custom cuts in the film, & tring to keep the customers car clean,I always ask myself is it worth an extra 20-$30, & will the customer pay it.(some cities residents are very conservative in their spending & Lincoln,NE. is one of them.I just discovered this method recently, the only down side is the chemicle is kind of hard to find.First, do your back window as you normally would, w/out the sanding or extra prep work,on your first spray flush down from the top of the matix then squeegee the entire window as normal,then towel the edges as usual but also wipe your towel across the entire dot matrix.Next spray from the bottom of the matrix down leaving the matrix dry,squeegee & repeat the spray pattern leaving the matrix dry.Next you'll be using a chemical called PRO-BOND, it is an adhesive promoter for vinyl,emblems,etc.Fold a paper towel into a 2x2 square and dampen it w/the PRO-BOND,then wipe the matrix starting @ the top left to right in one even stroke without overlapping your strokes,let it sit for 15 seconds while you peeling the liner & wetting down the entire piece of film.Remember the matrix should still be dry.Stick the window from the bottom up stopping at the bottom of the matrix,now lightly mist the matrix and apply the film.You will have to squeegee the top out quickly.Usually once its squeegeed out it won't get any better looking but sometimes a liitle heat will take care of the stubborn areas.PRO-BOND increases the adhesion bond by 200%.The only problem is it can't be shipped by UPS, its very flammable.But if you can get your hands on some it lasts awhile.Keep those tips rollin in! Good Luck.


Email: dunamisdesigns@hotmail.com
name: Hector
experience: 10
URL: www.dunamisdesigns.com
matrix-tips: What I have always done with the dot matrix is use a medium grade steel wool that doesn't scratch the glass. Scrub those suckers real good with a dry piece of steel wool (no water) and then go back over it with a soft scrubbing pad and soap and water. That has worked for me most of the time.

Name: aKme Motorsports
Email: info@akmemotorsports.com
Tinting Tip: Don't use messy glue! Why damage the rear window with sandpaper? The ultimate dot matrix solution is Avery A-8080 matte black vinyl . Most tinting places also cut vinyl, right? We have created patterns of many late model cars with dot matrix (mustangs, cavaliers, grand am's, etc.) Designed to start at the top defroster line, the vinyl is applied to the inside and matches the black ceramic around the windows. The dot matrix disappears. It also allows the use of smaller rolls (20" or 24") of tint for rear windows! We charge $25 for the service. Try it out!


Name: Jason Jones
Email: jonestint@aol.com
Tinting Tip: I have always used fine steel wool to scuff the hell out of the dots and lines. After scuffing, I spray them with glass cleaner and wipe with a paper towel and repeat spraying and wiping until no more "black" is left on the towel. Then I tint the glass making sure to squeege upward on the dots, so it eliminates fingers on the sides. I've used all the brands of film and found that the adhesive on ** SUCKS! I will NEVER use ** because of that! I use Sun-Gard and if I had a second choice, it would be Solar-Gard. As for Madico, it just doesn't shrink that well.


Name: Jeff Bales 14 years exp.
Email: solarboy31@aol.com
Tinting Tip: hey guys tired of all the tricks and trying to use them all and finding out that most dont work with th type of film that you use you'll love this one wipe off the back glass dry no moister at all cut your back glass out a little over size use good tape put a piece on the edge on 1 side and go to the other side and pull the film to stretch it to were it pulls the finger tight and tape that side down what happens when you shrink it,it pulls to the glass and it works with films that are hard to shrink (3M) but hey it works try it. and for dot matrix use 00 steel wool windex srub down wipe clean white srub pad with soap and water cut the film a little bigger around the dot area so no air will get back under the film and cause it to turn white use less soap make it stick fast great tips guys



Name: Travis Teague
Email: wolfpacdesigns@hotmail.com
Tinting Tip: Hey Guys.....over the years i have tinted. The easiest way to deal with the dot matrix is...instead of using "O" Glue which will eventually turn yellow or taking all that time trying to sand down the dots with sandpaper. I found that painting the Dots is much easier and the results are a LOT better for the future. Usually it only takes me like 10 minutes. All I do is trim the film to the last dot line, tape off the film and a lil bit of the headliner and tape some paper towels to the tape and just cover the back seat with a couple old sheets or blankets, Use a torch to heat the outside of the glass so that it can dry the paint faster, then use a Flat Black KRYLON Paint to paint the inside of the glass and use a tube light to make sure no light comes through and that there are no runs, once your finished making sure there isnt any light or runs immediatly take off the tape being careful not to touch the paint, the reason why you should pull the tape while the paint is wet is because if the paint is dry and you go to pull the tape off the film..the paint will crack/peel. Also if you accidently touch the wet paint while pulling the tape let the paint dry and go over the light spots with a paint pen. I think that the result of painting the dots looks much better then gluing the dots because the likness of the paint fading or turning yellow or unsticking from the window is very slight. Also the time it takes to glue the dots is about the same time as painting the dots. I know cause the people here in Portland, OR/Vancouver, WA are very picky. I have not yet had 1 customer come back to me and complain about the dots i painted.


Name: Shelli
Email: anon@anon.com
Tinting Tip: Sand Them! With about 400 grade paper. Do it in an organized fashion. Sand left to right. Then up and down. If you use a small enough piece of sand paper like the circle type folded in half. You can avoid scratching the glass. I don't understand why some of you think that it take a half hour. If you wait till you shrink your tint the have your light set in the back seat. You can watch your dots as you sand them to see how much exactly you need to sand off. I found that sanding them dry makes it go alot quicker. Takes me 10 minutes at most.


Name: dlizzletint
Comments: use glue that is all that is going to be said if you do you will succed in the very tanacious tinting world people often will test you to see if you are going to get these dots. most people wont even notice it but if you do in fact get a wise guy in he is going to tell you about your laziness trust me 22 years in the business ive been doing it since tint was just in slippery paper form some of you know what im talking about . take a razor blade scrape them off the dots, then glue in between.

Name: donavon
Email: manstayouth@aol.com
Tinting Tip: for dot matrix simply dont wet the dot matrix when applying tint just wet the tint itself( remember you have to clean and the glass and squegee it )you can wet the rest of the glass but dont wet the matrix and you will see the that it works you wont see that whitish stuff on it. Also you have to leave like a 1/2 of an inch on the top of the glass so it will stick .... a little heat wont hurt it .. try it and u will see ... it really works by the way this a great site keep it up dude!!!


Name: ntints
Email: anon@anon.com
Tinting Tip: Yes the best for dots is the elmers school glue> I have used this method in some of the hottest spots in the country and it works the most consistantly.Use the blue gel school glue..


Name: Anonymous
Email: tintman72@houston.rr.com
Tinting Tip: The glue on the dots is very effective but you should know that sanding the dots on some of the new cars can and will cause them to rust. The main cars to look for are the Ford Mustang, vw bug, most of the nissan vehicles, and on the Honda accord coupe.


Name: solotinter
Email: hwt_2000@yahoo.com
Tinting Tip: I use Pro-Bond and sanding techniques. Pro-Bond is very aggressive and takes some practice to get used to. I first sand dots with 400 grit sandpaper with soapy water to lubricate and reduce glass scratching, then clean dots with window cleaner to remove soap residue. 2 things that are VERY important are: 1. to use as little slip agent in your solution as you can get away with in the dot area, and 2. to apply plenty of Pro-Bond.


Name: Phoenix
Email: Tint-Tech@aol.com
Tinting Tip: I hate too give this one away but your all far away! hehe. 12 yrs experiance and Dad did it for 15 so do the math I am tired of the shop! Love the Lord though! Take 0000 steel wool unwrapp it fold it over twice put it on a hand vibrating sander spray the dumb dots and viola! It will bring the dots down to just a colored dot no rise will not scratch glass at all tried it on everything.?'s call 561-719-9692 Must cover the entire seat with old drop cloth. Black juice evrywhere. No rust later and no heating or nothing thats it. If youe hate scraping go ahead will not scratch glass at all. If you get a car with stained outside windows remove the iron zinc whatever stains for $120 dollars perfect everytime. Don't give it away fellas. Anything that has to do with optical clarity is expensive oakley, Prada come on get the hint. Make some money for your effort. Back in the day mid 80's we got 250$+ a car. You actually made dough. And had employees. Sorry for the negativity. I am now located in Palm beach and here they love to give it away a whole car for 59$ retarts! Its all a scam though. Customers love honesty and great job. Want a removal tip on rear window try it cold! Spray stuff bag it and wait 15 min and gently pull. Verses sweat'n and glue spots. If it is too purple use a brick! j.k hey God Bless all you Tinters and if you share a shop with stereo alarm guy I feel your pain...

Email: CARCARE2001@AOL.COM
name: DOUG ALSTON
experience: 1YEAR 5MONTHS
matrix-tips: SOAP AND WATER WITH AT LEAST TWO TERRY TOWELS AND S.O.S(BRILLO) PADS USE THE S.O.S(BRILLO)PAD DIP IT IN THE SOAP AND WATER AND SCRUB THE DOT MATRIX LINES BUT DONT SCRUB THE LINE UNTIL YOU SEE LIKE A YELLOW FILM IF SO YOU'VE SCRUBBED TO HARD A TOO LONG(JUST ENOUGH TO GET IT CLEAN) THEN TAKE THE TERRY TOWEL AND WIPE THE EXCESS DIRT OF (THEN START THE WINDOW TINTING PROCESS....


Email: strike101@msn.com
name: Rick Robinson
experience: 9

matrix-tips: I use a chemical called pro-bond. You sand the dot-matrix area with a grey 3M scotch-brite pad first. Then clean the whole rear glass. Next take a paper towel and make sure the dot-matrix is dry. Then U apply the pro-bond to the dot making sure not to overlap with each pass more than 1 inch. Allow 20-30 seconds for the chemical to dry. Then apply your film making sure not to wet the dot. Squeegee out the film EXCEPT for the dot. Let the film for the dot hang down until the rest of the window is pushed out. Then push the dot area out. Make sure you push hard this is a one-shot deal, but it works! If any of you are interested in this chemical, email me at strike101@msn.com. Tint the planet!


Email: demento79@hotmail.com
name: FlyTint
experience: 4.5
matrix-tips: Dot matrix sucks my butt... I havent tried the sanding or glue... YET... Ive always just painted the dots (But the paint peels eventually) Or I just heat the crap out once the film is on, and press hard with my hardcard till it looks good... i still get the whiteness sometimes though... Thanks for the extra info, your site is awesome!


Email: tintdoctor@yahoo.com
name: John McCabe
experience: 5
matrix-tips: I have enjoyed reading the different methods shared by other tinters in the posts above. I must say however that stick glue is my favorite way to deal with dots. I have tried vinyl (worked fine looked ok) tried air brushing (looked fantastic took to long) tried sanding (worked fair to much work for what you get) but glue aaaahhhhh glue sticks is where its at. I first learned about the glue method 3 years ago from another tinter. I let him experiment on about 100 cars over 2 years without a failure before I ever tried it myself. The first car I used it on was a 2000 Grand Am 2 door and it took about 15 extra minutes and made one hell of a slime mess....but looked beautiful when finished.We are the only shop in our part of the state that does use glue . Our customers dont know how or why our dots look so good but they can see the difference right away if they have seen bad dots in the past. We include an additional $20 to the job price and now with practice it takes maybe an extra 5 minutes but looks soooo much nicer.If the car has nasty dots Mustangs, Sunfires, Malibus or Grand Ams glue is the only way to go. thanks for such a cool site. Doc.


Email: TINTS4U@AOL.COM
name: CHRIS HOWARD
experience: 16
matrix-tips: PREP WINDOW WITH DIRT OFF OR SPRAYAWAY GLASS CLEANER SAND MATRIX WITH 400 SANDPAPER WITH CLEANING SOLUTION KEEP INTERIOR PROTECTED FROM STAINING ONCE SANDED DRY WELL WITH PAPER TOWEL (TAKE CAUTION NOT TO SCRATCH GLASS WITH SAND PAPER) USE ELMERS GLUE STICK WIPE ON ENTIRE MATRIX RUB IN WITH FINGERS TO FILL BETWEEN DOTS CLEAN GLASS AREA AS NORMAL INSTALL FILM TAKE CARE NOT TO WET THE GLUE ANY MORE THAN NEED TO (ITS WATER BASED) INSTALL FILM AS USUAL SQUEIE OUT WATER EVERYWHERE EXCEPT MATRIX NOW TAKE HARD CARD WRAPPED IN PAPER TOWEL AND WIPE OUT MATRIX WORKS GREAT!! IF HAVE ANY EXCESS IN MATRIX PUT SCRUB PAD ON HARDCARD WRAPPED IN PAPERTOWEL GO OVER MATRIX AGAIN


Email: scuriual@ualberta.ca
name: Stephen Curial
experience: 1
URL: https://www.SweetTruck.com
matrix-tips: We have tried everything at our shop to fix the dot matrix problem because we do tint for a few GM Dealerships and get a ton of sunfires and cavilers in. The most effective solution is to lay the tint as normal not squeegeeing the top. Pull the film back and rinse the dots and film with cold water. We have since started to mix rubbing alcohol 50/50 with water and let it sit in the cooler to chill. Rinse the dots and tint of all of the soap then once finished the rest of the car move the car out into the hot sun. Haven't had one come back since doing it this way, so I guess it works. :)


Name: Tint Shady
Email: anon@anon.com
Tinting Tip: If you sand the matrix with sand paper wet or dry, it will rust for sure, especially in a humid climate, the elmers gel works the best


Name: Big D
Email: anon@anon.com
Tinting Tip: 4 years experience-
Tinting tip: These tips on this page all work (I've tried them all) its all up to how much time you have for your business, and the average joe. For the buiness people using the glue stick on the window dots seems to be the best way to get arround them...Using the sanding method is ok but you don't want to scrach your customers back window...Have fun tinting, I know I am..$$$$$$$$$$$$$$


Name: stan
Email: boulder@clas.com
Tinting Tip: We try it all. Nothing works all the time. A good scrubbing, good shrinking, some pro-bond and clean install should get the job out the door. Any tunnels or curled edges need boiled down with heat gun. Have the customer come back in one to two weeks for a quick burnish.


Name: Jason Visions Tint Shop
Email: jrl49@hotmail.com
Tinting Tip: I have found that sanding usually works. you will have some cars that are stubborn though. I have used the vinyl as well. its all on what the customer wants het there opinoin first and go from there.

Email: scuby_z@hotmail.com
name: ron
experience: 9 yrs.
URL: www.autotrimdesign.com
matrix-tips: i have used sanding, vinyl, paint, but i think the glue method is by far the best. it is the cleanest and the fastest way to get the job done rite. if you have not tryed it give it a shot you and your customers will love it.


Email: micko7@ozemail.com.au
name: mike casey
experience: 22

matrix-tips: good site i sand with 1000/1200 wet and dry then scubb with 00 steel wool using dot devil/x100/light acid.wipe over dots with a rage before cleaning glass. sanding is the go it quick ..mick aussie tinter....


Email: Shine4him@yahoo.com
name: Ryker
experience: 13 years

matrix-tips: I have tried the scrubbing of the dots, the glue messes, razor blading the dots, and even peeling back the tint and spraying with a water and alcohol mixture. The latest and greatest method takes no time and works out great. I use the product Pro-Bond. Finding it is easy as my tint distributor offers it. Pro-Bond is also awesome when it comes to the small dots around small windows. Just don't get the product on the clear part of the glass as it has a cloudy look. You also want to have the tint shaped just right when you press hard on the wide top dots as it will stick and not move anymore which may cause a crease. Good luck and enjoy....


Email: stealth1@rogers.com
name: PROTINT
experience: 17
matrix-tips: For Dot Matrix, try pulling back the film along the matrix and rinse the film off with plain water, then stick the film on without sgueegeeing and heat the top of the window while the water is still under te film (From the outside of course, then squeegy, make sure not to paper squeegy the top but wipe away the excess drips and leave a micro bead of water around the edge seems to prevent air from seeping back under. This seems to work almost all the time for me, if anything I only have to heat the stubborn spots again and resqueege.


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