CaliTINT

Global is a solid film. Virtually the only film manufacturer that produces its own product from start to finish. 

@jh812 is correct.   
 
there is “one” thing you can do to fix it  
you can razor blade all the defroster lines down, then the film will lay in smooth. Defroster won’t work ever again, but it will look great.   

The good will only do sub wrk...When we are slam...we sub out our ppf and tint...They ask for what they are worth and I pay it since we price our service right. Hope your retail or wholesale price can afford them with still making a healthy profit or raise your price.

Im qualified but I'm not showing up on time that's for sure. 

Some may disagree or hate Yelp but Yelp brings in most of our new customers. We used to not pay for advertising on yelp but when we started paying for ads our phone would ring off the hook and our inboxes full.
 
Google is a great source as well.  

I’m not a tinter but you answered your own question. Your work space is a mess and you are searching for tools. Get an organizer and clean up your mess.

Excited to announce that our new shop will be completed this month. We hope to get moved in and using it next month. Been a long time in the making and we are more than ready!

Case closed got a 5 star review from her. Point is try to do the best you can do to handle the situation even if it’s not your fault. Listen to their concern and try to rectify it. 

I personally have seen MANY new vehicles come from the dealer with flaws, and these are vehicles without even a few hundred miles on them. Unfortunately most consumers don't start to notice imperfections until after they have had some type of after market work done to it, in our case being window tinting.

but Camero ......

https://thefreethoughtproject.com/window-tint-man-held-gunpoint-police/
 
 

Switch to Global HP30.

It have landed....We gonna be the first to install this film in the nation...we been testing it out for a few month and it is awesome so far. Ceramic IR from 3M

I thought I would share how to make this one easier.
 
Shrink/Wet Shrink:
 
Roll film out on BG, trim along bottom-edge, bump bottom down, mark sides, roll down, and trim top-edge. Then trim sides and round off corners. Dry shrink the bottom portion, pull film off, roll down glass and wet shrink the top portion. 
 
Its important to anchor in the middle and to anchor where it creates more to shrink,  not less to avoid fingers. I bottom load with hatch up. Reverse roll works good too. 
 
Panel Removal:
 
This panel comes off fast. Pop the light covers and remove strap cover and remove 3 - 10mm bolts. Door panels are 3 bolts that are in same location on all doors. 

I use old office chairs, still had a couple of them break over the years but they're usually pretty decent for a long time 

That sucks. I’ve got a death trap of a rolling chair that I tint off of. I tell everyone that sits in it to sit at their own risk. It’s junk but perfect for what I do with it.

Sounds like something I’d do. I tried to tell a guy today not to snatch the top edge waste that was stuck to his shoe off. He did it anyway and got a nice paper cut on his finger. Been a while since I’ve done that.

Way to many cuts and stitches to talk about. Three herniated discs in my kneck from falling out of a truck and landing on my head. Blew L4/L5 flipping my rolly round chair and me in to the rocker of a car. Had surgery to remove that disc in two pieces that were not repairable. One knee replacement....three orthoscopics....

Sounds like they don't have or want to put out the coin to stock a higher cost film.

Just curious, are you absolutely sure it’s adhesive or is it possible the film separated leaving a thin layer of film?
 
Sometimes happens on older tint. If this is the case then I’ve had luck tinting the back glass, letting it dry, then use a steamer and slowly peel it off. 
 
If it truly is just really stubborn adhesive then this obviously wouldn’t work. 

Those are not bubbles, but pieces of dust/trash/felt contamination of some sort.  They will not go away.  Pic #2 is from the installers fingers when he applied the film.  
Trash in the film like that shows up more with darker films and the ceramic type films like what you have installed.  Dust particles are our enemy. They are everywhere during installs and we do what we can to keep this from happening.  I say all this so you are aware of what the installer is dealing with.  
 
If you go back to the shop and ask them if they can do a better job,, try to be as understanding as possible about the situation (until it is time to not be understanding). 
They might agree to try and redo them with less trash or they might tell you it's the best they can do.  
Also be aware that it will be a removal and replace so there is a risk of left over glue if not cleaned well during removal.  
 
Now that you know what is up, all you can do is talk to the shop and see where it goes from there.  Good luck.    
 

Just did a windshield today using Unger to squeegee windshield and green turbo to push the rest of the water towards the pillar, cleanest one yet.
 

I like the Blackout squeegee in the Handjob.  Sounds like a porno response but I dont make the tool names. lol
 
https://44tools.com/fusion-5-ppf-black-out-blade/
 
https://44tools.com/fusion-hand-job/

I assume you mean your cleaning right before you do an install right? 
 
When I first started I was trained to use the Unger. I ditched it simply because it has metal and potential for scratches car parts. I also use the yellow turbo for the sides of large windows and for small windows. I have tested out a few others and have chosen the Yellow Go Doctor as my g to cleaning squeegee. 
 

I assume you mean your cleaning right before you do an install right? 
 
When I first started I was trained to use the Unger. I ditched it simply because it has metal and potential for scratches car parts. I also use the yellow turbo for the sides of large windows and for small windows. I have tested out a few others and have chosen the Yellow Go Doctor as my g to cleaning squeegee.